How to Add a Potting Bench to a Yard

For a gardener, nothing is more satisfying then heading outdoors to pot up seedlings; a potting bench makes this easy. The main feature is the worktable, while lower shelves hold supplies like potting soil, pots and miscellaneous tools. The best work centers are designed around the needs of those who use it.


Step1
Walk around your entire yard considering possible locations for your potting bench. Obvious spots are exterior walls of the house, shed, garage or fence. Access to a hose, as well as the shed or garage where tools and supplies are stored, offers additional convenience.


Step2
Decide whether to buy a prebuilt bench, to assemble one from the variety of kits available, or to design and build your own. Use materials that coordinate with or complement your deck or fence.


Step3
Enhance the usefulness of your potting bench by adding a sink and faucet; bins or storage containers for potting soil and fertilizers; racks for pots; hooks for hanging tools; shelves for small pots and bottles. If possible, allow space to store a garden cart, a bin of potting soil, and trash and composts barrels.


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How to Acid Wash Concrete

Using a muriatic acid wash is the solution of last resort for cleaning stubborn stains and blemishes from concrete. The acid works by dissolving the concrete to remove the stain and it can permanently damage concrete if mishandled.



Step1
Try every other means available to remove stains from concrete before using muriatic acid. (See Related eHows.)


Step2
Purchase muriatic acid from a home improvement retailer or a chemical wholesaler.


Step3
Put on protective clothing and gear before handling the acid, including goggles and rubber or latex gloves.


Step4
Read the manufacturer's application directions carefully and follow them exactly. Apply only as much acid as needed, no more, and let it soak into the concrete surface for several seconds.


Step5
Rinse the acid off the concrete with water using a pressure washer set at 2500 to 3000 PSI and contain the resulting runoff so that it does not enter a storm drain.


Step6
Sprinkle baking soda over the area you treated with acid to neutralize the solution.


Step7
Take the runoff water to a recycling center that accepts hazardous materials.


Step8
Assess how much the acid damaged the concrete and consider resealing the concrete to prevent future stains or deterioration of the concrete.

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How to Buy Duct Tape

Do you ever feel like the entire world is being held together with duct tape? After you read the following, you'll know if it's true and to keep a roll on hand at all times.

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Step1
Determine the amount you need, and buy a roll accordingly. Some projects need multiple rolls.


Step2
Look around the house and your car to see where duct tape can be used for maintenance and repair. Mend split car seats, patch holes in screens, tape wires together after splicing and repair heating ducts.


Step3
Figure out ways to utilize duct tape for personal care. It can remove lint from clothing, and in some cases, it can remove warts. Fold the tape in half, and it doubles as a sturdy bookmark. If you wrap a soda can in it, it serves as insulation, keeping the drink cold.


Step4
Consider the more ridiculous uses for duct tape. Twisting a long piece of it makes rope. Tape annoying people to walls, floor, ceiling or bed. Put it on your lawn and paint it green. Say good-bye to mowing. Also consider that duct tape converted a carbon-dioxide filter on Apollo 13, allowing the astronauts to breathe during their return to Earth.


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How to Buy Door and Window Locks

"Locks only keep honest people out," the saying goes, but high-quality door and window hardware make your house or apartment less attractive to burglars. If you survey your home as a potential target and don't try to cut corners, you'll find security devices you can trust.


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Step1
Ask your police department for a home security inspection. Or, have a locksmith evaluate your home, explain all security options, and install professional-quality devices. Call members of the Associated Locksmiths of America (aloa.org).


Step2
Replace hollow-core entry doors with solid hardwood at least 1 3/4 inches (4.5 cm) thick, steel-clad or insulated fiberglass doors. The frame should not have gaps wide enough for a pry bar.


Step3
Install exterior doors with hinges on the inside. Burglars can pop out exterior hinges and remove a locked door. Install a 180-degree peephole rather than a door chain. Make sure you can't put a hand through your mail slot and reach the lock.


Step4
Upgrade key-in-knob locks (thieves can jimmy their spring-action latches with a credit card) to ones with hardened steel pins or a dead bolt ($10 to $35). If you like the convenience of a key-in-knob lock, add a deadbolt above it.


Step5
Invest in grade 1 or 2 dead bolts (under $65), which withstand kicking, prying, wrenching, hammering, sawing and drilling. A single-cylinder deadbolt is key-operated from the outside; a double-cylinder is key-operated from both sides. If your door has a glass pane or is near a window, install a double-cylinder model so a burglar can't break the glass and unlock the door. Keep a key for emergencies near the door, not in the lock.


Step6
Shop for dead bolts that have a steel bolt with a 1-inch (2.5 cm) throw (the bolt extends that far into the door frame), strike plates secured with 2 1/2- to 3-inch (6 to 7.5 cm) screws, five- or six-pin cylinders and a free-spinning solid-metal cylinder collar. Screws must be long enough to penetrate the framing around the door.


Step7
Install a steel door pin near each hinge to secure swing-out doors, preventing the door from being pried out.


Step8
Secure double-hung windows with a nail or bolt. Drill the hole through both sashes at a downward angle to prevent a burglar from jiggling the pin loose. Keyed sash stops ($6) are also available. Be aware that crescent or butterfly latches are easily picked with a knife.


Step9
Install retractable window grates for worry-free ventilation on basement and ground-floor windows.


Step10
Prevent sliding doors from being lifted off their tracks by using vertical bolts or antilift plates between the doors and their top tracks. Heavy-duty keyed locks mount on the inside edge of the frame.

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How to Buy Carbon Monoxide Detectors

Called "the silent killer," odorless, tasteless carbon monoxide (CO) gas results from faulty combustion in a furnace, fireplace or gas range, or a car (in an garage). A CO detector is your only means of protection.

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Step1
Shop for a CO detector. There are only three types; they're all affordable ($30 to $50) and easy to install:


Step2
A biometric CO detector has a gel cell of synthetic hemoglobin that absorbs CO. The combination battery and sensor module must be replaced every two to three years, but the detector should last about 10 years. After an alarm, the sensor should clear itself within 2 to 48 hours when left in fresh air. If it is not cleared, it will sound again when put back in the detector. Sensors that don't clear must be replaced.


Step3
A semiconductor detector is a plug-in device with an electronic sensor, and lasts from 5 to 10 years.


Step4
An electrochemical detector responds differently to different levels of CO exposure. Its self-powered battery doesn't need to be replaced, and the detector will last for at least five years.


Step5
Look for the Peak CO Memory feature on higher-end models. These displays remember the highest level of CO registered over a given time, which helps emergency personnel determine the severity of the problem, and can tell you if the detector sensed high CO levels while you were away.


Step6
Buy a detector with special light features if someone in your family is hard of hearing. During an alarm, an indicator light flashes as the horn sounds. Although many alarms have a liquid crystal display (LCD), it's easier to read a light-emitting diode (LED) display in dim light.


Step7
Listen for a continuous siren that indicates a full alarm. A repetition of loud pulsating beeps means there is some CO buildup; a chirp every minute alerts you to an alarm or battery problem.

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How to Buy Cabinets

Purchasing cabinets for your kitchen or bathroom is a big decision. But with a little time and effort, you can get the best fit and value.



Step1
Make a list of the cabinets you require. Consider your storage needs and what type of cabinets will meet those needs. For example, will a 12-inch-wide cabinet be useful for you or is it too small to hold your kitchen tools?


Step2
Take accurate measurements of the area where the cabinets will be installed. Measure all dimensions - depth, width and height. Recheck your measurements. It is extremely important that these measurements are correct.


Step3
Draw a diagram of the area and include the dimensions of the area where the cabinets will be installed. Measure and write down the size and location of the existing cabinets, if any. (You may want this information to note what cabinets are being replaced, or you may want to buy the same pieces or get a larger cabinet for a certain spot.)


Step4
Visit several cabinet vendors. Include both upscale cabinet/kitchen showrooms and major home centers.


Step5
Look at the cabinets and select the styles that you like.


Step6
Understand how cabinetry is priced: Cabinet prices are based upon the quality of construction and the materials used. Special pieces (fancy corner cabinets or those with special features such as lazy Susans) are considerably more expensive than basic cabinets. Cabinets are priced by the unit (cabinet), although some showrooms will offer the costs of display kitchens on a per-square-foot basis as well.


Step7
Ask salespeople direct questions. Inquire as to the specific reasons why one line is more expensive than another. Make sure that you understand the differences in both cost and construction.


Step8
Review your dimensions with a designer at the showroom.


Step9
Develop a plan that works for your needs and budget. Most showrooms today have computers that allow the supplier to print out plans, materials lists and even 3D views. (Remember to consider your appliances when developing the design.)


Step10
Confirm that your plan includes all the features that you want, including trim packages and other extras that may be included with the showroom displays.


Step11
Execute a contract for the purchase of the cabinets. Specify an outside delivery date and note if the vendor will provide installation services.


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How to Buy Basic Garden Tools

There's a tool for every garden purpose--a dandelion popper, a bulb dibber, a watering can for seedlings. Stock your shed with well built, high-quality essentials--the classic tools you'll use year after year.


Step1
Check for a comfortable, balanced weight. Too heavy a tool will wear you out quickly, as will a poorly balanced tool. Too light, and you will have to compensate with your own energy.


Step2
Feel the handle. High-quality wood, usually ash, should be smooth, with an even, straight grain. Longer handles provide more leverage.


Step3
Make sure the head's on straight. Carbon steel is the highest quality. Consider stainless-steel tools if you're willing to pay the price. They're durable, rust-resistant and easy to clean.


Step4
Look closely where the head joins the handle. The strongest connections are forged sockets or steel strapped, riveted with several rivets. Less-expensive tools often employ a metal sleeve that extends from the head and wraps around the handle.


Step5
Test for sharpness. A tool's edge will hold up better if the steel is tempered, heat-treated or solid-forged.


Step6
Recognize the essentials. Every garden needs most of the following: Shovel, spade, digging fork, weeder, hoe, edger, leaf rake, garden rake, hand pruners, loppers, and a pruning saw. There are obviously a much wider variety than those, and many or helpful. But with those, any gardened can be tamed.


Step7
Buy your tools at hardware stores and nurseries. Or shop online at sites such as A. M. Leonard (mleo.com) and Smith & Hawken (smithandhawken.com).


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How to Build a Simple Reinforced Wood Retaining Wall

A retaining wall holds back soil, either in a planting bed or on a slope or hillside. It can be built out of anything - from stone to wood to poured concrete - and it can significantly alter the contours of your yard or garden. These guidelines cover a low, reinforced wood wall. For anything stronger, you'll need a contractor.


Step1
Figure out where and why you want a wall: at the bottom of a gentle slope to create a new planting bed? Between two beds to provide contour and definition? (If the answer to this is "to keep my house from sliding down the hill" see Warnings below.)


Step2
Use a trowel, shovel or grub axe to chop out the cut (a combination of ditch and ledge) where your wall will start.


Step3
Cut 4-by-4 posts to a length equal to the height of your wall plus the amount they will be sunk into the ground; your building code will tell you how far they need to be sunk.


Step4
Dig holes for 4-by-4 posts at the inside base of your wall every 4 feet.


Step5
Lower the 4-by-4 posts into the holes.


Step6
Pour concrete around the posts to ground level.


Step7
Level the concrete. Allow to dry and cure for a week.


Step8
Cut boards (or buy pre-cut boards) - 2-by-6s or 2-by-12s are a good choice - to fit the length of your wall. For example, if you're building an 8-foot wall, you'll have sunk three posts - two 8 feet apart and one in the middle (at the 4-foot mark) - so you'll want to use boards that are 8 feet long. If the wall requires more than one length of board to reach from end to end, you'll need to measure carefully so that they'll meet in the middle of a post where they can be bolted for stability.


Step9
Bolt boards to posts using carriage bolts, placing the boards on the outside of the post (use at least two bolts per board-post intersection).


Step10
Dig a couple of 2-inch diameter tunnels under the wall for drainage using a trowel or screwdriver.


Step11
Fill the drainage holes with gravel.


Step12
Backfill the cut - the area behind the wall - with at least 6 inches of gravel at the bottom for drainage. Fill the remaining space with soil to the top.


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How to Build a Pedestal Bed

A pedestal bed can be a sleeping accomodation that is both easy to set up and easy to take down. It also eliminates the need for a box spring, making the job of moving the bed much easier than a traditional box spring and mattress. One of the challenges to making a pedestal bed is that standard bed sizes (including mattresses) and standard construction material sizes aren't the same. However, here's one way you can build a pedestal bed using standard materials.


Step1
Go to a home improvement store or hardware store and purchase the materials needed to build the pedestal bed.


Step2
Cut the 2 x 6's to match standard bed dimensions. That means 2 pieces at 54 inches and 2 pieces at 80 inches. This will leave you with 2 pieces of 42 inches and 2 pieces of 16 inches.



Step3
Stand the 2 x 6's on edge and install the hinges at each corner so the hinge pins will be on the outside of the boards. These pieces will form the bed frame. Don't put the hinge pins in just yet.


Step4
Put together 2 cross braces consisting of 1 long piece (42 inches) and 1 short piece (16 inches) of the leftover 2 x 6's. Overlap the 2 pieces so the total length is 54 inches. These will sit inside the bed frame and provide support for the mattress.


Step5
Cut (or have the hardware store cut) each of your 4' x 8' sheets so you have 2 pieces that are 80 inches long by 27 inches wide. You may be able to use the leftover pieces as shelving.

Setting Up the Bed


Step1
Align the bed frame corners and drop in the hinge pins. These will hold the bed frame together but are easily removed when it's time to move it.


Step2
Lay the cross braces on edge, inside the bed frame, each about 36 inches from an end. Lay your 2 pieces of MDF or plywood on top of the frame so they meet in the middle, and fasten them with a few screws into the frame.


Step3
Put your mattress on top of the frame and put bedding on the pedestal bed.


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How to Build a Bookcase

Building a bookcase can be a complicated project requiring craftsman skills or a simple straightforward project. Here's a design that you can make with standard lumber from the lumbar yard using some common tools. You certainly don't have to be a craftsman to make this practical but inexpensive piece of furniture.


Step1
What you'll need

1 piece of 2"x 10" x 12' lumber (cut in half)
2 pieces of 1"x 10" x 8' lumber cut into 32" sections
"L" brackets (4 per shelf).
A saw or router.
Piece of thin hardboard or 1/4" plywood.
Brads (1/2") and screws (#8 3/4" long)
Sandpaper, stain, and paint.
Drill and drill bits
Screwdriver and hammer


Step2
Cut (or have your lumberyard cut) a 2"x10"x 12' piece of lumber into two pieces 72" long. These two pieces will form the sides of your bookcase.


Step3
Cut (or have your lumberyard cut) 2 pieces of 1"x10"x8' lumber into three sections each. These 32" sections will form the top, bottom and shelves of the bookcase.


Step4
Sand the edges of all the boards. Paint or stain all the boards as well as the piece of hardboard or plywood.


Step5
Determine the optimum spacing of your bookcase shelves (depends on the size of your books) and mark the spacing on the sides of the bookcase.


Step6
Attach "L" brackets to the sides of the bookcase aligning them so the shelf heights will match your requirements. (Put the brackets 3" from the front and 3" from the rear of the bookcase sides).


Step7
Fasten the top shelf to the L brackets on both sides of the bookcase and then work your way down, attaching the shelves as per your layout. You may want to position the top shelf 1" from the top of the bookcase for appearance.


Step8
Paint the "L" brackets so they blend in with the bookcase color.


Step9
Cut the hardboard to fit the back of the bookcase and attach it with the brads.

How to Choose a Backhoe to Rent

Decide if you need a backhoe, loader, or excavator. Backhoes have more power than compact machines but cost less than excavators. The backhoe loader features two tools. On the front, a loader is used to pick up piles of material or push dirt into a hole. The rear backhoe digs through hard earth. You can exchange the backhoe or loader bucket for different attachments: crushers, grinders, or other tools.


Step1
Decide how deep you need to dig. A full-sized backhoe reaches down 14 to 16 feet.


Step2
Use a compact backhoe to dig eight to 10 feet deep. It is less expensive, more maneuverable, and easier to transport than a full-sized backhoe.


Step3
Check that the loader has adequate lift height to load your dump truck.


Step4
Choose attachments to increase the machines' flexibility. Substituting forks for a bucket lets you transport pallets.


Step5
Choose a backhoe with a quick coupler, or integrated tool carrier to use multiple attachments.


Step6
Look for stabilizer legs that have either grouser shoes for a firm grip on dirt or rubber-padded shoes for use on asphalt.


Step7
Choose four-wheel drive backhoes for better traction on mud or loose ground.


Step8
Select four-wheel steering for improved maneuverability on crowded job sites.