Saturday, August 16, 2008

How to Buy Door and Window Locks

"Locks only keep honest people out," the saying goes, but high-quality door and window hardware make your house or apartment less attractive to burglars. If you survey your home as a potential target and don't try to cut corners, you'll find security devices you can trust.


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Step1
Ask your police department for a home security inspection. Or, have a locksmith evaluate your home, explain all security options, and install professional-quality devices. Call members of the Associated Locksmiths of America (aloa.org).


Step2
Replace hollow-core entry doors with solid hardwood at least 1 3/4 inches (4.5 cm) thick, steel-clad or insulated fiberglass doors. The frame should not have gaps wide enough for a pry bar.


Step3
Install exterior doors with hinges on the inside. Burglars can pop out exterior hinges and remove a locked door. Install a 180-degree peephole rather than a door chain. Make sure you can't put a hand through your mail slot and reach the lock.


Step4
Upgrade key-in-knob locks (thieves can jimmy their spring-action latches with a credit card) to ones with hardened steel pins or a dead bolt ($10 to $35). If you like the convenience of a key-in-knob lock, add a deadbolt above it.


Step5
Invest in grade 1 or 2 dead bolts (under $65), which withstand kicking, prying, wrenching, hammering, sawing and drilling. A single-cylinder deadbolt is key-operated from the outside; a double-cylinder is key-operated from both sides. If your door has a glass pane or is near a window, install a double-cylinder model so a burglar can't break the glass and unlock the door. Keep a key for emergencies near the door, not in the lock.


Step6
Shop for dead bolts that have a steel bolt with a 1-inch (2.5 cm) throw (the bolt extends that far into the door frame), strike plates secured with 2 1/2- to 3-inch (6 to 7.5 cm) screws, five- or six-pin cylinders and a free-spinning solid-metal cylinder collar. Screws must be long enough to penetrate the framing around the door.


Step7
Install a steel door pin near each hinge to secure swing-out doors, preventing the door from being pried out.


Step8
Secure double-hung windows with a nail or bolt. Drill the hole through both sashes at a downward angle to prevent a burglar from jiggling the pin loose. Keyed sash stops ($6) are also available. Be aware that crescent or butterfly latches are easily picked with a knife.


Step9
Install retractable window grates for worry-free ventilation on basement and ground-floor windows.


Step10
Prevent sliding doors from being lifted off their tracks by using vertical bolts or antilift plates between the doors and their top tracks. Heavy-duty keyed locks mount on the inside edge of the frame.

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Tuesday, August 12, 2008

How to Buy Carbon Monoxide Detectors

Called "the silent killer," odorless, tasteless carbon monoxide (CO) gas results from faulty combustion in a furnace, fireplace or gas range, or a car (in an garage). A CO detector is your only means of protection.

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Step1
Shop for a CO detector. There are only three types; they're all affordable ($30 to $50) and easy to install:


Step2
A biometric CO detector has a gel cell of synthetic hemoglobin that absorbs CO. The combination battery and sensor module must be replaced every two to three years, but the detector should last about 10 years. After an alarm, the sensor should clear itself within 2 to 48 hours when left in fresh air. If it is not cleared, it will sound again when put back in the detector. Sensors that don't clear must be replaced.


Step3
A semiconductor detector is a plug-in device with an electronic sensor, and lasts from 5 to 10 years.


Step4
An electrochemical detector responds differently to different levels of CO exposure. Its self-powered battery doesn't need to be replaced, and the detector will last for at least five years.


Step5
Look for the Peak CO Memory feature on higher-end models. These displays remember the highest level of CO registered over a given time, which helps emergency personnel determine the severity of the problem, and can tell you if the detector sensed high CO levels while you were away.


Step6
Buy a detector with special light features if someone in your family is hard of hearing. During an alarm, an indicator light flashes as the horn sounds. Although many alarms have a liquid crystal display (LCD), it's easier to read a light-emitting diode (LED) display in dim light.


Step7
Listen for a continuous siren that indicates a full alarm. A repetition of loud pulsating beeps means there is some CO buildup; a chirp every minute alerts you to an alarm or battery problem.

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Monday, August 11, 2008

How to Buy Cabinets

Purchasing cabinets for your kitchen or bathroom is a big decision. But with a little time and effort, you can get the best fit and value.



Step1
Make a list of the cabinets you require. Consider your storage needs and what type of cabinets will meet those needs. For example, will a 12-inch-wide cabinet be useful for you or is it too small to hold your kitchen tools?


Step2
Take accurate measurements of the area where the cabinets will be installed. Measure all dimensions - depth, width and height. Recheck your measurements. It is extremely important that these measurements are correct.


Step3
Draw a diagram of the area and include the dimensions of the area where the cabinets will be installed. Measure and write down the size and location of the existing cabinets, if any. (You may want this information to note what cabinets are being replaced, or you may want to buy the same pieces or get a larger cabinet for a certain spot.)


Step4
Visit several cabinet vendors. Include both upscale cabinet/kitchen showrooms and major home centers.


Step5
Look at the cabinets and select the styles that you like.


Step6
Understand how cabinetry is priced: Cabinet prices are based upon the quality of construction and the materials used. Special pieces (fancy corner cabinets or those with special features such as lazy Susans) are considerably more expensive than basic cabinets. Cabinets are priced by the unit (cabinet), although some showrooms will offer the costs of display kitchens on a per-square-foot basis as well.


Step7
Ask salespeople direct questions. Inquire as to the specific reasons why one line is more expensive than another. Make sure that you understand the differences in both cost and construction.


Step8
Review your dimensions with a designer at the showroom.


Step9
Develop a plan that works for your needs and budget. Most showrooms today have computers that allow the supplier to print out plans, materials lists and even 3D views. (Remember to consider your appliances when developing the design.)


Step10
Confirm that your plan includes all the features that you want, including trim packages and other extras that may be included with the showroom displays.


Step11
Execute a contract for the purchase of the cabinets. Specify an outside delivery date and note if the vendor will provide installation services.


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